We tried the new Lay's Horno: some (not) fried potatoes that are promoted with half the fat

Chip-type fries are probably the most universal appetizer and the second favorite by Spaniards after sunflower seeds. We know that they are not highly recommended, which is why the industry is trying to win over consumers who care about their health by reformulating their products or disguising something that is not so healthy as healthy. Lay's Horno is one of the latest proposals to arrive in stores, a line with which the brand claims to "revolutionize" the market for commercial snacks.

Launched at the beginning of October, the latest novelty of the brand owned by Pepsico has not in vain coincided with the end of summer. Just when the consumer is facing the new course looking to get rid of the excesses of the holidays, a variant of the most popular crisps of the brand appears but with a particularity, well highlighted on the packaging: "with 50% less saturated fat than traditional French fries.

It is a striking statement but, as expected, it has a little trick, although all the product labeling strictly follows the legislation. There is a small detail in this supposed revolutionary snack, since the term "crisps" does not appear to define or describe the product itself. Because, legally, they are not.

A "potato snack product"

To know what a food product is and what it really contains, you have to ignore everything on the package and look for the legal trade name, which usually precedes the list of ingredients and nutritional information. We turn the bag over and we can read "baked potato snack product"; that is, they are not potatoes as such.

It was clear that they could not be advertised as ordinary fries, since the baking process is precisely their great asset, but they are not simply baked potatoes either. Even with industry technology, it doesn't seem possible to mimic the deliciously crunchy texture of a traditional potato chip without frying, as much as we love our lighter homemade versions. Whoever tries to find the same result is doomed to disappointment.

It is not surprising, therefore, that Lay's has resorted to formulating a snack made from dehydrated potato flakes and other ingredients to form what we suppose to be a dough that is shaped like a potato chip, or something similar, to obtain this crispy texture by baking.

The complete list of ingredients, in the 'point of salt' variety, is as follows:

As for the 'peasant' flavor variety, the list is lengthened:

The range is completed with the 'Herbes de Provence' flavor, which we have not been able to test, with a similar list of ingredients but also including whey and lactose among the flavourings, so only the first flavor described would be free of allergens.

Nutritional comparison

Below we detail the nutritional information of this potato appetizer comparing it with its original chips, for every 100 g of product, including the light version that already had the brand -and which are real potatoes-. We can verify that the total energy content of these snacks does not decrease as much when reducing saturated fats, and that sugars also increase.

Good crunchy texture with a flavor that stays medium

The packaging of these Lay's Horno is of good quality, with the typical bags but very resistant and somewhat more solid to the touch than other brands, totally opaque and imitating the design of the original Lay's whose flavor they want to imitate. Interestingly, the 'salted point' variety contains 150 g, while the other two only 130 g, although it is a detail that goes unnoticed at first glance.

Despite the usual hustle and bustle that these balls undergo during transport, we are surprised to find a large number of complete units, without breaking, and that is that they have a remarkable thickness, without being exaggerated.

Each false potato is cut following a hexagonal shape with a certain alleged irregularity, with a slightly curved shape and both sides crossed by parallel lines, the typical grooves that remind us of the wavy Ruffles, also owned by Pepsico.

It is a well-planned design that, on the one hand, recreates the curves that Pringles also mold, another snack made from dehydrated potatoes, but on the other, seeks to more closely mimic the appearance of a real potato chip and not so much identical clones. The crunchy texture is very successful and that palatability when biting them is their greatest virtue.

The taste is where they falter the most. We liked the 'campesinas' much more, since they reproduce the qualities of the original ones quite well, with their typical smoky aromas and that characteristic point of paprika. The 'to the point of salt', however, are too bland. They are not bad, but they are average.

A lover of real fries, those of the churrería type or more artisan, will be disappointed. What makes chips a delicious snack is precisely the real potato taste and texture that it acquires when properly fried in good oil. These types of alternative products only mimic the shape and crunchy texture.

We understand that there is a market for these less greasy snacks, since the snack market has only grown with more or less innovative proposals. From fries with bizarre flavors to supposedly healthier vegetable, vegan or organic products, there is a whole gold mine to be exploited.

In conclusion, a crunchy snack with less fat but for occasional consumption

Lay's Oven doesn't really fool anyone, if you read the fine print. They want to offer an alternative with less saturated fat for those who do not want to give up that snack, but we must be aware that they are still an ultra-processed product to consume moderately and occasionally.

The country women, especially, will appeal to those who were already a fan of the originals, but whoever tries them and is not convinced, we recommend returning to their usual fries. The difference in nutritional terms is not so great that this reduction in fat is an excuse to devour an entire bag a week. Since you are going to give yourself that occasional treat, it better be really enjoying it.

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